#This dish is extremely versatile, meaning that you can vary the type and quantities of vegetables, meat and fish to suit your taste and what you have to hand.# Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F) Gas 7.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, add the pasta and cook until slightly less than al dente. Drain, reserving 2 tablespoons of the cooking water, and return to the pan.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a medium saucepan over high heat. When the oil is searing hot, add the tomatoes. Cook for 1 -2 minutes, taking care not to burn the tomatoes, but allowing them to caramelize a little. Reduce the heat and mash the tomatoes with a potato masher, then add the garlic and oregano.

Stir well, cover and cook for a few minutes, then add the mushrooms, if using, cover and cook for 20 minutes. Stir in the tuna, capers, peas and ham and heat through.

To make the bechamel sauce melt the butter in a small saucepan. When it starts to bubble, add the flour and mix well. Cook over gentle heat for 1-2 minutes, then whisk in the milk and continue cooking until the sauce thickens. Add grated nutmeg and season to taste.

Add the tomato sauce to the pasta with the reserved water and mix until the pasta is well coated. Stir in the mozzarella and salami, if using. Transfer to a large, shallow, buttered ovenproof dish and pour the bechamel sauce over the top. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs. Drizzle with olive oil and bake in the preheated oven for 20-30 minutes until golden. Serve immediately.

Note: To make crisp breadcrumbs, cut the crusts off a large, slightly stale, white loaf and lay them on a large baking sheet. Bake in a preheated oven at 100°C (200°F) Gas 1/2 for about 1 hour until they have dried out completely and are crisp all the way through. Leave to cool, break into large pieces, then put in a food processor and reduce to fine crumbs.